Winter Cycling
Dry powdery snow is not a problem. The mess it makes when a bike like this comes into a warm house is.
Neil's personal perspective.
Cycling in the winter is just like cycling in the summer, except it's darker, colder and wetter. These things make it less fun.
It's less fun, but that doesn't mean you have to stop. There are technological fixes for each of these problems.
In the dark evenings and mornings you need lights. This is one aspect of cycling where there has been real improvement in the past 30 years. LED lights are far better than the old filament bulbs.
There is a bewildering range of lights on the market. At the lower price end, the difference between very cheap and moderately priced is in the quality of the bracket that fits the light to the bike. At about £20-30 a pair of lights should be good enough to be seen with.
Lights must be mounted on the centreline of the bike, or to the right (offside). There's actually a law about this. Some people fit lots of lights, but I think this just creates visual confusion. If you have two lights at the back, fit them one above the other. If you put them side by side you can look like a car far away.
In the cold you need to wear more clothes. You don't need to wear as many clothes as you would walking or standing about, as cycling keeps you warm. An outer layer with a zip is good to help you regulate temperature.
Good gloves are a must when it's below freezing.
I have found the best headgear for cold is a beret, as other hats make my head sweat. I get lightly mocked by the music staff when I turn up for meetings in it, but they are just jealous. In the rain and wind I have a broad brimmed hat with a chin tie, which keeps the rain off my glasses. I once had a Sou'wester, which was great.
Cycling in the winter is just like cycling in the summer, except it's darker, colder and wetter. These things make it less fun.
It's less fun, but that doesn't mean you have to stop. There are technological fixes for each of these problems.
In the dark evenings and mornings you need lights. This is one aspect of cycling where there has been real improvement in the past 30 years. LED lights are far better than the old filament bulbs.
There is a bewildering range of lights on the market. At the lower price end, the difference between very cheap and moderately priced is in the quality of the bracket that fits the light to the bike. At about £20-30 a pair of lights should be good enough to be seen with.
Lights must be mounted on the centreline of the bike, or to the right (offside). There's actually a law about this. Some people fit lots of lights, but I think this just creates visual confusion. If you have two lights at the back, fit them one above the other. If you put them side by side you can look like a car far away.
In the cold you need to wear more clothes. You don't need to wear as many clothes as you would walking or standing about, as cycling keeps you warm. An outer layer with a zip is good to help you regulate temperature.
Good gloves are a must when it's below freezing.
I have found the best headgear for cold is a beret, as other hats make my head sweat. I get lightly mocked by the music staff when I turn up for meetings in it, but they are just jealous. In the rain and wind I have a broad brimmed hat with a chin tie, which keeps the rain off my glasses. I once had a Sou'wester, which was great.
A drysuit. This cyclist has ridden 60 miles in conditions most people wouldn't pop to the shops in.
Rain is less of a problem than is perceived. It only rains at commuting times about 15 times a year in Glasgow, so you don't get soaked that often. Most cycling jackets are waterproof for an hour, and you can either wear waterproof trousers, carry a change or wear quick drying polyester.
The traditionalist cyclist will use a cape, which only really works with drop handlebars. They are OK as long as it's not windy. You are not a real cyclist until you have had a cape blow over your head in traffic.
If you want the ultimate in wet weather gear, a yachting drysuit is good but pricey.
The traditionalist cyclist will use a cape, which only really works with drop handlebars. They are OK as long as it's not windy. You are not a real cyclist until you have had a cape blow over your head in traffic.
If you want the ultimate in wet weather gear, a yachting drysuit is good but pricey.
A Dickies Waterproof Insulated Boilersuit has 14 pockets, most of which will hold a cuddly toy, as this small girl has just proved.
If it's very cold, then a waterproof insulated boilersuit is good. Dickies make the cheapest at about £60. These are so warm that I can only cycle in one when it is minus 5 Centigrade or below. They are a bit cumbersome and slow you down.
Mudguards are essential for winter, and protect your bike as well as you. Your bike will need more maintenance in the winter, especially the chain and brake blocks. The chain will need oiled frequently and the brake blocks wear faster. The cables also suffer.
Ice is a nightmare. If you lose traction on the front wheel you are going to fall off. If the back wheel skids you are also going to fall off, but in a less sore way.
There are different kinds of ice. The worst is when the temperature is at or just above freezing. Then water forms on the ice, or is melted by the pressure of your tyres. Wet ice is very bad. If it is really cold then the ice stays dry and can be ridden on with care. Sometimes there are visible bits of hard white ice on an otherwise dry road. Riding on that kind of surface is like one of those videogames with instant death areas.
Mudguards are essential for winter, and protect your bike as well as you. Your bike will need more maintenance in the winter, especially the chain and brake blocks. The chain will need oiled frequently and the brake blocks wear faster. The cables also suffer.
Ice is a nightmare. If you lose traction on the front wheel you are going to fall off. If the back wheel skids you are also going to fall off, but in a less sore way.
There are different kinds of ice. The worst is when the temperature is at or just above freezing. Then water forms on the ice, or is melted by the pressure of your tyres. Wet ice is very bad. If it is really cold then the ice stays dry and can be ridden on with care. Sometimes there are visible bits of hard white ice on an otherwise dry road. Riding on that kind of surface is like one of those videogames with instant death areas.
Schwalbe studded tyres on the 2017/18 Snowbike.
The two solutions to ice are tricycles and studded tyres. Trikes are expensive and hard to store, so studded tyres are better. They only come in wider sizes, so you will need a hybrid or mountainbike to use them. I found them to be horrible to ride with when the roads were merely wet, making the bike feel dreadful when it should have been good. On hardpacked snow and ice they grip well and inspire confidence.
Snow is fun. At least, fresh snow is fun. I love riding in fresh snow. Slush is ok to ride through but messy. Frozen slush is impossible.
In conclusion, winter cycling is a bit more challenging than summer but still possible.
Snow is fun. At least, fresh snow is fun. I love riding in fresh snow. Slush is ok to ride through but messy. Frozen slush is impossible.
In conclusion, winter cycling is a bit more challenging than summer but still possible.
